Sponge-finish the mortar edge beneath the front of the bullnose pavers and leave an expansion joint without mortar about every 2m.
This makes it easier to pick them up by the corners. Check the height of the screeded sand using a paver offcut. Scribe the circle for the pool skimmer box opening by using the ring that the lid sits in as a template. How To Lay Pool Pavers. From upgrading entertaining areas to building giant statues and even beautiful timber screens to hide wheelie bins. If you are looking for ideas on how to bring your yard up to scratch, read on. Large-format concrete pavers give the pool a brighter look and feel Make a solid base For pavers to withstand the test of time and countless litres of splashing and runoff, a solid base is essential.
Before laying the new pavers, the old coping and pavers were removed. Paving materials In addition to the new pavers, you will need to order materials to create a base, lay the paving and grout the finished result. Clean all the grout residue off the surface or it may stain the pavers.
Position the pavers overhanging the pool shell by 40mm. Overlap every second one, halving the overlap to mark cut lines on both pavers. Cut the pavers using a wet brick saw, then replace them to check the alignment.
Lay a narrow mortar bed at the pool edge, then use a 10mm notched trowel to spread adhesive around the perimeter.
Apply enough adhesive to lay three pavers at a time, spreading it slightly wider than a paver width. Bed each paver gently onto the adhesive, checking that the joint alignment is parallel and the overhang is even. Use a spirit level to ensure each paver falls slightly away from the pool.
Grout the joints using a wet sand and cement mix, leaving an unfilled expansion joint every 2m. Mask off the edges of the expansion joints, then run a bead of silicone into each joint and smooth with a soapy finger. Set stringlines at the finished paving height and position screed rails 35mm below them. Pull a screed board across the rails to level the surface of the sand, then remove the rails and fill the channels with sand.
At both ends of the area to be paved, set perpendicular stringlines located to allow full pavers to fit against the house wall and step. Follow the stringlines to lay a lead row of pavers, then work from this row to lay the adjacent rows of pavers, leaving a minimum gap of 2mm between each row. Compact the pavers using a rubber mallet. Measure each gap to be filled, then transfer the measurement to a paver, marking cut lines with a straightedge or spirit level.
Step 4: Dry-fit all coping and make appropriate cuts refer to cutting techniques covered later in this guide. NOTE: Direct concrete overlays will not allow paver surface leveling with a tamper to remove height variances. Step 5: Dry-fit all coping and make appropriate cuts refer to cutting techniques covered later in this guide. Concrete Pool.
This will ensure good adhesion of the mortar and the coping. Step 2: Dry-fit all coping and make appropriate cuts refer to cutting techniques covered later in this guide. Coping Types. Use a hand-held masonry saw or a wet masonry table saw. Wet masonry table saws are the most accurate. If your plan is to use a grouted joint, your cuts can be slightly more forgiving. For tight joints, you may need a small grinder with a diamond blade to fine tune the edge. Depending on the style of coping, tight fit butt joints may require an indentation cut to one unit to accommodate the end of the opposing unit.
A hand-held saw along with the help of a small hand grinder will make this easy. Always practice on scrap pieces. Apply grout between units before sliding them together. Straight Wall Coping. Longer units install faster and look better. Always install corners first and then fill in up to corners.
Dry fit your coping first and work out cuts strategically to avoid short awkward cuts and unbalanced lengths that are not visually pleasing. Think about balance prior to ordering coping units. In the example below there are 2 lengths that must be ordered for a balanced install. Always order units that are longer than you need to give you some flexibility. Curved Wall Coping.
Mitering Coping for Curves. Step 1: Dry lay 3 or 4 coping units along the pool edge so that the front edges or back edges are touching depending the curvature. See diagram below. Step 3: Using a straightedge such as a level or square, mark two parallel lines over the gap to be mitered. Step 4: Cut using a hand-held masonry saw or a wet masonry table saw.
Step 5: Check to make sure the units fit well and then proceed to the next batch of 3 or 4 units until complete. Adhering the Coping. Step 1: Ensure the coping is clean. Step 2: For straight-sided pools, always construct the corners first and work towards the middle. This way you can make cuts to adjust lengths where required. Pre-wetting the concrete collar and using a slightly wetter mix of mortar will help units adhere better. Use a string line to maintain straightness and a torpedo level to maintain the slope of each unit.
Step 5: Do not let grouting mortar cure on surface of the coping. Always clean any mortar residue off the surface of the coping and adjacent pavers with a soft brush, warm water and a sponge as you go.
Fill the joints between units with an exterior tile grout. Congratulations - your pool coping is complete! Completed pool project. Share with:.
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