This action actually isolates the brighter stars and lightens only the dim deep sky object and the dimmest stars in the image, resulting in a lighter image in which the stars are kept small and tight.
Handy tip: If an image needs a LOT of brightening, often a combination of this action and the Curves function will give the most natural looking result, while still keeping bright star sizes small.
Occasionally you'll get to a point in your editing where you'll say, "Gee, if my nebula or galaxy were a little brighter, and the stars a little dimmer this image would be better. This is precisely the action to run if you have stars that are a bit too bright and distract from the subtle dim detail of your deep sky object. Handy tip: When you think you're done with an image, try running this action on it.
Chances are it will make an overall visual improvement. When viewing black and white images taken through filters - for example the commonly used Hydrogen Alpha filter - I often found myself wondering what the object would look like if presented in the actual color of the filter. I tried a few experiments and found that the image always seemed more natural and real when presented as though the viewer were actually looking through the filter with his or her own eyes, or as if the image was taken with a color camera through the filter.
This isn't an attempt to make a black and white image into a full-color shot, but simply the creation of an alternate visualization of what the object looks like in the color of light it was actually imaged. While others are presenting their Ha images in plain old black and white, make yours stand out!
If you'd like to see actions for other filter colors, please let us know and we'll consider creating visualization actions for additional colors in a future version of this actions set. Similar to the above, an alternate visualization of what the object looks like in the color of Oxygen III emissions line light.
Star Diffraction Spikes - High-end Ritchey-Cretien telescopes like the Hubble make them because of the cross-shaped vanes that hold the secondary mirror in position Some folks make them by tying strings across the aperture One thing's for sure - they look cool! And the highest quality astroimages often have them. I own a Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope that doesn't make them optically, so I decided to craft a way to make spikes digitally. If your telescope doesn't make diffraction spikes and you want them in your images - or you'd like to enhance the ones you get optically - I've included four different actions for making them.
You have the option of adding them to your images in the quantity you want, from spikes on even the smallest stars to spikes on only the biggest, brightest ones. NOTE: If you're looking to take the digital generation of diffraction effects to the next level in your images, please check out our new professional level companion product - StarSpikes Pro 3 - which offers a much greater range of control and stunningly photorealistic results.
Handy tip : If the results of running Star Diffraction Spikes are too gaudy for your tastes, run This reduces the brightness of just the spikes - you can make them as subtle as you like! Handy tip : If you get unnaturally strong or wide spikes on huge stars, run I've included an action that makes a simple frame around your image in the background color of your choice, and with a nice edge effect that gives the feeling of looking through a window at the heavens.
It even leaves room for you to put a caption at the bottom of your image. The way the actions in this set normally run, you end up with an updated image that replaces the one that was current when you started the action. However, sometimes to facilitate more sophisticated editing, you'd rather have the results of the action in a separate layer. You can run this action to separate the results into two layers, one below containing the image before the action was run, and one above with the results of the action.
You can then mix the before and after results creatively. You can run this action to separate the results into two layers, one below containing the image after the action was run, and one above before the action was run. The way the actions in this set work, they normally operate on the entire image, regardless of any selection you might have made before running the action.
Sometimes this is not at all what you want - you'd like the changes to be made to the selected region s only - and the Per Selection Only action is just what you need to do that. This is a bit complicated, so let us put forth an example to help a bit The Make Stars Smaller action operates not only on the stars but on everything between the stars.
To restrict the results to only the stars themselves - i. Per Selection Only" action. You will find the results restricted just to the selection, which is remade afterward as well. Some of the images on this page courtesy Dr. Greg Parker and Bud Guinn. PC and Mac Compatible works with all modern full Photoshop versions.
System Requirements. By sighting on certain stars and aligning the astrolabe with the north star, the user could determine a precise time for his location. This astrolabe was made by Hajji Ali, and is a fine example of the astrolabes made in Persia during the Safavid period. The maker is unique among astrolabe makers in numbering his work. Ten of the fourteen astrolabes made by him were numbered. The astronomical compendium at right was made by Johann Anton Linden in It consists of an astrolabe with a rete for 34 stars, a table with the exact location of 29 stars, a lunar aspectarium, a table with the longitude and latitude of 70 towns, and a calendar fo the years British Museum MLA 57,,1.
Late 17th-century Italian Copernican armillary sphere. Made of beechwood and covered with paper, with engraved, hand-drawn and hand-colored circles. Marbled Florentine paper with gilt decoration. The sun is at the center, surrounded by an ecliptic zodiac circle and a polar circle. The underside is inscribed in ink die 29 Mensia Xtoris This date is misleading.
Paper was extremely expensive and and it was a typical Florentine practise to re-use it. The date refers to the paper, not the armillary sphere. The written records of the Babylonians, the alignment of Stonehenge and the great sacrificial temples of the Mayans and Aztecs represent more than just tools for telling time and tracking the seasons.
Behind the technological achievements is a complex symbolical structure--the mythology, the cosmology, the world view of ancient peoples. In fact, there are only 4 actions that I regularly use on my astrophotography images regularly.
Minimizing the size of the stars in an astrophoto is an important technique to learn. When it comes to deep-sky astrophotography images, everyone has their own specific tastes. However, almost everyone can agree that small, focused stars are an attractive feature. Previously, I have shared a simple Photoshop method for reducing star size that works incredibly well. This technique can be used to achieve similar or even better results than this action, but it will take you a lot longer.
This can be useful in situations where the stars in your image appear too crunchy as the name suggests , and you want to soften things up a bit. It is wise to select and mask any areas of your astrophoto that you wish to protect from this effect. This could be certain stars in the picture, and most often, the deep-sky galaxy or nebula itself. For example, you may want to run this action on the blue channel only, to help balance out the color of the stars across the image and retain the cool colors.
This is one of my favorite actions in the set. Running the action once may provide a slight boost in saturation to the stars in your photo, but running it several times over can create odd-looking, unnatural stars. You must also to the time to properly mask your subject in the photo before running this action. This will effectively make the stars more colorful, reduce their size, and soften them up. This is, hands-down, my favorite action of the bunch.
Depending on the speed of your computer and the size of your image, this one can take a little while.
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